As much fun as it is to get to a new location and start shooting ASAP, I’ve learned from experience that it’s best if you pause for a few moments to organize your thoughts and your gear.

Quarter an hour of preparation at the start of a day’s shooting can save you lots of frustration in the field – and maybe help you create a few great shots.

Over time you will probably develop your own working method and preferences for certain camera settings, but when a camera is new to you or you’re uncertain of which settings to use, it’s worth starting each photography trip with a quick survey of your camera’s controls.

Set the image quality and size

Always set your camera to the highest image-quality mode and the largest pixel dimensions. I recommend using the highest level of JPEG (with the least amount of compression), which on most cameras will be the Fine/Large setting. JPEG format is fast, uses less memory space and produces excellent image quality.

If your camera supports RAW and you are experienced using the RAW format to record images, then set that mode. RAW images have some important advantages when it comes to image editing and processing, but remember that RAW files take up a lot more memory, both on your memory card and in your computer, they’re slower to record, and require special software to download, decode and view. If it is your first experience with RAW, it’s better to delay experimenting to a later time.

Match exposure modes to your subject

The “auto” and “program” exposure modes are all-purpose modes that are perfectly fine for general shooting situations. Most digital cameras, however, have a number of special subject modes, which enable you to match your camera settings to a particular subject. The most common subject modes include: landscape, sport, night photography, portrait, macro, etc.

If you’re shooting at a sporting event, for example, switch to the “sport/action” mode to be sure you’re getting a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Or, you can switch to the “shutter priority” mode to select a fast shutter speed yourself (or to intentionally set a slow shutter speed if you want to blur the motion).
{jumi [bigblock.php]}
White balance

Another thing that your camera can’t anticipate is the “colour” of the light that you’re shooting in. While all light looks “white” to the naked eye, your digital camera will see different types of lighting as distinctly different colours.

Most digital cameras have an “auto” white balance setting that will automatically correct the colour balance to compensate for any existing light–and in most situations that setting works just fine. You’ll find, however, that manually setting the white balance to a specific type of lighting produces far more accurate results.

Setting your own white balance is easy. Take a look at the light around you and match your white balance setting to that light. Cloudy day? Use the “cloudy day” or “shade” setting to warm up the scene. Shooting indoors with tungsten lamps? You’ll get much more appealing results if you set the “tungsten” setting.

Anyway, some error in definition of colour temperature is not critical – you can adjust it later with your image processing software.

Don’t carry too much equipment

One of the most self-defeating things you can do is to try and carry too much gear with you – especially if you’re going to be doing a lot of walking. In other words, are you going on a photo shoot or entering a competition for whose got the heaviest backpack? On the other hand, you don’t want to wander off without essential bits of equipment.

 In such cases a shoulder bag is not the best choice: unbalanced loading will make you quickly tired, and give you a sore back, it can even slow you down, especially when you want to shoot something that’s behind you. I prefer a small backpack or so called “tactical vest” with a number of pockets.